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Dotted across the north-west of the Pacific Ocean, the limestone islands of Palau rise like forested domes. Beneath the waves, reefs pulse with activity – fish dart through coral gardens, turtles drift nearby, while sharks with black-tipped fins shadow a passing tourist boat.
Nearly a decade ago, the country took a bold step to safeguard this vibrant seascape, declaring 80% of its waters a no-fishing sanctuary. But support for the sanctuary – which covers a massive area about the size of Sweden – has soured among some Palauans. Those who rely on the ocean feel caught between the need to feed their families and the rules designed to protect their waters.
